How To Draft A Pattern

How to Draft a Pattern: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners and Beyond

Creating your own sewing patterns can be incredibly rewarding, offering unparalleled control over fit, style, and design. Whether you're a seasoned sewer or just starting, mastering pattern drafting is a valuable skill. This guide will walk you through the fundamental steps, offering tips and tricks to ensure success.

Understanding the Basics of Pattern Drafting

Before diving into the process, let's cover some key concepts:

Measurements: The Foundation of Your Pattern

Accurate measurements are paramount. You'll need a flexible tape measure and a friend to assist. Key measurements include:

• Bust: Around the fullest part of your bust.
• Waist: Around your natural waistline.
• Hips: Around the fullest part of your hips.
• Shoulder Width: Across your back, from one shoulder bone to the other.
• Back Neck to Waist: From the base of your neck to your natural waistline.
• Sleeve Length: From your shoulder point to your wrist bone.

Tip: Take multiple measurements to ensure accuracy and choose the largest measurement if there's any discrepancy. Record your measurements meticulously.

Choosing Your Pattern Style:

Start with a simple design. A basic bodice or skirt pattern is an excellent starting point. More complex designs, like fitted dresses or tailored jackets, require advanced pattern drafting skills.

Drafting Tools:

Gather your essential tools:

• Pattern Paper: Large sheets of sturdy paper (e.g., pattern-making paper or even large sheets of newspaper taped together)
• Ruler: A long ruler (at least 36 inches) and a shorter ruler (around 12 inches) for precision.
• French Curve: For creating smooth, curved lines.
• Pencil: A sharp pencil for clean lines.
• Eraser: For correcting mistakes.
• Scissors: Sharp scissors for cutting the pattern.
• Tape: For holding the pattern paper together and securing your measurements.

Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting Guide: Basic Bodice

This guide illustrates drafting a basic bodice pattern. Remember to adjust these measurements based on your own body measurements and the desired style.

1. Creating the Basic Block:

This is the foundation of your pattern. We'll create a simple rectangle representing the front and back bodice pieces.

• Determine the length: Use your back neck to waist measurement plus a few inches for ease.
• Determine the width: This depends on your bust measurement and the desired fit. A good starting point is half your bust measurement plus a few inches for ease (e.g., a bust of 36 inches might use 20 inches).

Draw this rectangle on your paper. This forms the basic shape of your bodice.

2. Adding Shaping:

Next, you'll add curves to shape the bodice. This involves using your French curve to create smooth curves at the neckline, armhole, and waistline. The exact measurements for these curves are dependent on your body type and desired silhouette. Consult pattern-making resources for detailed instructions on these shaping techniques.

3. Creating the Armhole and Neckline:

Carefully sketch the armhole and neckline curves, referencing your measurements and any design preferences. The armhole's size will affect the fit of the sleeve (if you are creating one).

4. Adding the Darts:

Darts are used to shape the fabric and provide a better fit. For a basic bodice, you'll likely need bust darts to tailor to your bust measurements. The size and placement of the darts are based on your bust measurement and the amount of fullness you need to remove.

5. Cutting Out the Pattern:

Once you've finalized your drawing, carefully cut out the pattern pieces. Remember to label each piece clearly (front and back).

Beyond the Basics: Expanding Your Pattern Drafting Skills

Once you’ve mastered the basic bodice, explore these advanced techniques:

• Sleeve Drafting: Creating sleeves requires understanding different sleeve caps and styles.
• Skirt Drafting: Learn how to draft A-line, gathered, or fitted skirts.
• Pants Drafting: Drafting pants patterns requires a good understanding of fitting and leg shaping.
• Using Commercial Patterns as a Base: Trace and adjust commercial patterns to fine-tune the fit.

Remember: Practice is key! Don't be discouraged by initial imperfections. Each pattern you draft will improve your skills. Experiment with different designs and styles to build your confidence and expertise. Utilize online resources and tutorials to further enhance your understanding.

With patience, dedication, and a dash of creativity, you’ll be designing your own stunning garments in no time!